Відео

Thank you..newbie here.

I have one coming in today exactly the same one you have except mine is dark grey color.

So the original antenna can be bought to replace?

Nice info brother. Thanks as always

Great review. Thanks

I’m confused because I saw this Please do not cut open watermelon, peaches, pineapples or any other kind of fruit and feed it to bees. dehydration and even death. I never know what to believe.

Could the moth already laid her eggs in your comb before u bagged them up? Thx

Has anyone mounted a ZnSe lens on this thermal camera?

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shankar

Thanks Jason , just been looking at this very same extractor on eBay, they are more expensive in Australia but you have made my mind up to buy one,so thanks again.

What about during covid?

Does anyone know where to get the aluminum bottom thats shown @18:20?

what do you use to put a cage for when it gets close to hatching? I had to tape the cages to the jzbz cups because they didnt fit

One of the easier videos to understand and learn from. Thanks for taking the time to put it together

I take spring honey and let the bees keep the fall honey for winter. .

thank you! We were gifted 2,000 saplings and had no idea what to do with them.

Thanks for comfirming that most of how I figured it was supposed to work was correct! I never remember how long to leave mine hooked up to our battery booster (easier to carry than car battery and plugs in where the electric fence does) so every time before I stick it in a hive, I do a test burn with a timer, I think last time I did it was only a minute and a half for everything to be gone, then I leave it in for at least that long just to make sure, then remove the wand and leave them sealed in with it while I get ready for the next one. I also have done test burns on wood and paper and my wand doesn't get hot enough to scorch anything. I do often wind up with dead bees in the little cup when I pull it out though so I've thought about making a screened lid for the wand. I like your idea of swapping the bottom boards for your nucs, but couldn't you just pop the whole nuc, screened bottom and all, on top of that bottom board and have the OAV come up through the existing screened bottom board and not have to detach it? I've had to reconfigure a few of our hives (flip the bottom board upside down, essentially) because the bottom boards were too short to allow my wand in, and on our full sized ones with screened bottom boards I found the wand got caught on the screening when I slid it in. We also use entrance reducers for a lot of the year (ie any time there could be robbing, or for any new colony just establishing itself so the larger hives don't Get Ideas) so I try to make sure the ones I make have an opening big enough for the wand. If we ever get bigger than a dozen hives, I think we'll have to invest in a ProVap though, much quicker and easier from what I've seen.

I’ve been running six hives with these extra-deep frames (made my own sidebars per Jim’s design @ Vino Farms) for 4 years now, along with foam insulation outer sleeves - 7 extra deep frames plus a spacer on one side in 8 frame boxes. Great over-wintering success - early build-up / lower winter honey consumption - in southern New England. My experience is the bees consistently and quickly build drone comb in the open space between the foundation sheets. Pretty convenient if part of your mite control is removing drone brood. Haven’t experienced any cross or bridge comb. The one downside is the time it takes to produce the side bars. I can’t swallow the cost of the Banks frames, so in a pinch when I quickly needed additional frames this year I experimented with attaching deep and medium Acorn frames together, trimming the frame ears off the bottom frame on the tablesaw and using a 5/8” wood spacer between the two to equal the 16” depth of my wood frames. I secured the frames together using both cynoacrylate glue and additionally by drilling 4 aligned 1/2” holes in bottom of top frame and top of bottom frame, then zip ties through each set of holes. The bees took to them immediately, drawing continuous comb top to bottom. I can knock one together in about 20-30 minutes. Stability of the frames has been excellent, no waggling or flexing at the join of the two frames. Of course I don’t hold them by the top bar parallel to the ground, but these type of deep frames are too heavy to do that anyway. When inspecting I just have one hand on top bar and the other on sidebar about 2” from bottom. Easy to lift and flip/rotate to see other side. As Jason mentioned, I nspections are much easier and quicker than going through 20 frames. Because of the odd size, not a great solution to large sideline beekeepers who rely on standard frame sizes, but great for a backyard beekeeper.

From UK, Thanks, great tip on washboarding. I will watch out for this.

My yard is loaded with durch clover

In ohio from your experience when is the final best time to stop doing splits? How big of splits?

I think they're cleaning food remnants because robbing abouts to start soon

Had some robbers attack a large Carny hive already in Central Pa. Not sure what the robbers were thinking ,wasn't a huge entrance or small colony. Carnys killed 30-40 robbers before they gave up. Its really weird, had a weak colony next door that they could have overpowered. I'll take the win.

Sadly it can't do target following which is usually a basic function of a PT(Z) camera even in the lower segment. Without this the pan and tilt function is just a gimmick.

My nucs can be rather close together and they are all painted similarly so I use blue painters tape to make different patterns so the bees know which hive to go into, but when they start wash boarding they remove the tape. I'm guessing it's some sort of cleaning or polishing they are doing. It would be interesting to see if your bees do the same as what ours do if you wanted to experiment. Thanks for sharing!

Could it be they are cleaning up any nectar that is on the entrance to help prevent robbing

All ways good info on this guy jason Chrisman

I use reversable bottom boards on my colonies. the only time I take the reducers off completely in in the winter. the winter setting is too narrow for them anyway. robbing secreens saved a colony last summer not from other bees bur from yellow jackets.

Years ago read that it means hive is content. So I did inspections on five hives that were washboarding. Sure enough brood box was firing on all cylinders. All 5 I checked, queen had room to lay, no back filling brood with nectar or pollen,weren’t crowded perfect. My other hives needed addressing ie over crowded with pollen, honey bound , no room. Last week had two doing it and lots of pollen coming in. Will let them be just keep adding honey supers.

Thank you for the video and bee cool.

5:30 washboarding, after years of bee keeping I am amazed when see something new I love it line dancing but WHY? is it like you said they are closing the place down because the nectar flow is stopping, so kewl. or you just got some crazy bees at your hives?

Hi Jason The weather is the same here in Northern Kentucky HOT 🥵 I’v caught three swarms this year and have bees and all eight of my hives. Done an inspection last week they all seem to be doing very well two of the hives. I did not see any brewed eggs or larvae in them so I put another frame of eggs and larvae in hopes that they would make a queen. We still have a lot of clover bloomed. I’m thinking we still may have a couple weeks of nectar flow left. I would like to get some of the robin screens that was in your video. Can you send me a link for them or let me know where you buy them thanks man good seeing you again, keep up the great work

Since it got so hot, so early here in central VA....I've not been able to get nearly as much drawn comb as I've wanted in my splits. Then nectar flow came in heavy and early, so I was suspicious of it ending early. Our drought ain't helping. Was getting ready to reduce entrances here very soon. I'll keep an eye out on washboarding too.

Thank you, JC. Stay frosty.

FYI, 1:1 ratio is technically the same as 2:2.

I’ll build jc2

Sir how queen will get its food if kept / lock it inside..?

After watching this i bought the ultra for my son who has landscaping equipment. Always the low life thief trying to steal from working man. Thank you.

Good stuff

Im from Ethiopia africa i love your videos i hope they will change my life thank you

I got mine yesterday and with both the 7in1 and the monitor next to each other inside, there is a 1.1 degree difference. Is there a way to calibrate it?

2:42 This is opposite if you are in the southern hemisphere. Solar panel faces North.

The stick! Yes. Last time I did a series of elaborate strings and knots going from the top bar down around the bottom and back up to the top bar that I'll have to come back in and get out. I'm sure it will be much more complicated than removing a couple sticks😅

I’d be hesitant to put a deep frame in the bottom trying to get this hive started. You’ll have to pull all your extra deep frames out to get the deeps out of the bottom. Maybe put your deeps on top with a box the size of a medium below, to keep your bees from building under the bottom of the frames that can be easily removed.

Great video

Thanks for sharing

What kinda results did you have ?

Best showcase of the the t2 pro so far. And i watched a couple. Thanks :)

What was you mite count on the hives you treated?